Friday, May 3, 2013

Lover's Leap: California's Moderate Mecca

Having just returned from a trip with friend Ivo Kusanovich to Lover's Leap in the Sierra near South Lake Tahoe, I can declare with certainty that it is the most stacked crag in the state for moderate multi-pitch routes.  I say this because you can hardly walk 50 feet along the base before arriving at yet another classic 5.6-5.9 multipitch route with comfortable belay ledges and a casual walk-off through a pine forest.  Classic is not just an exaggeration either; Traveler's Buttress is listed in Steck and Roper's 50 Classic Climbs of North America.

With Ivo I got to enjoy such classics as the Line, Haystack, Traveler's Buttress, Hospital Corner, the Groove and Surrealistic Pillar, all of which would be 5 star area classics any where else.  As it is, they are 5 star classics right along side one another!  Not bad for a quick little trip! 

The Gobbler, a Black Velvet Canyon Classic

Last month I climbed a sweet route called the Gobbler (III 5.10) on the Black Velvet Wall in Red Rock, NV.  The route is a direct start to Dream of Wild Turkeys, but is also a worthwhile objective on its own.  Superb face climbing engages the mind, and a weird and tricky chimney engages the abs, and knees.  
A climber named Kira took these photos from the belays on Dream of Wild Turkeys and just sent them on.  Enjoy!