Thursday, June 20, 2013

Sun Ribbon Arete- Temple Crag's Most Classic Line

What is better than climbing one of the most classic alpine rock routes in the Sierra?  Probably coming back to camp and eating burritos and drinking cold beers complete with lime wedges thanks to a couple of mules who hauled it all in there for you! 
Every year it seems we do a pack supported trip into the Palisades, and this was no exception.  Letting the mules do the heavy lifting frees you up to concentrate on more important things, like... how many cantaloupes to bring!  But after we are deposited at our camp near Third Lake, we have to decide what to climb.

Glenn and I decided to get on the ultra-mega-classic good route called Sun Ribbon Arete.  There are several other "Celestial Aretes", namely Venusian Blind and Moon Goddess Arete, but this one wins out as best route in a landslide.  Why?  Incredible quality climbing, amazing positioning, and a TYROLEAN TRAVERSE in the middle of the route!  That's right, you have to throw your rope over a horn on the other side of a large notch, secure it, and tyrolean across it!  

Realizing now how many exclamations I am using, I may need to tone it down a bit.  But that's how good Sun Ribbon is.  Now, go do it.  Or let me take you up it.  I promise not to use as many exclamations.  Maybe.  

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